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SCALLOP SHAPES

(FRONT VIEW)

Stovepipe

ShallowScallop

Full Rounded Scallop

Free Form

PULL STYLES

(SIDE VIEW)

Overlay

Traditional

Interior

Mule-ear

Floral Tongue

Leafy Tongue

Curved Tongue

Narrow Tongue

TONGUE SHAPES

Roper “Walking Heel”

Heel Height

“Under Cut” Heel Profile

HEELS

Welted Sole
(all boots, including dress boots)

Cemented Sole
(dress boots only)

SOLE CONSTRUCTION

(TOP VIEW)

Round Toes

Box Toes

TOE SHAPES

LASTS

Forms shaped based on your measurements and used to make the boots.

DECORATIVE TECHNIQUES

I honor the creative solutions to functional needs in the Western bootmaking tradition.

 

Stitched patterns on the boot shafts developed in response to a need to hold the lining leather to the tops before adequate long-lasting cements did the job. Continuing a long tradition of gendered work in footwear production where women closed the uppers before men built the shoes, historically women often were the top-stitchers for male bootmakers.

As these techniques offered bootmakers more and more opportunity for decorative expression, beautiful patterns and leather working techniques formed an anthology of visual ornamentation:

 

Inlay is a technique where holes cut into the top leather are backed by leathers of different colors and textures, then stitched all together to decorative effect.

Overlay is a technique where one layer of leather is stitched over a background leather.

 

Hand embroidery holds a niche place in the history of bootmaking. A slow and mindful embellishment, I deliberately incorporate hand-embroidery in my bootmaking to honor the undervalued contribution of women to decorative arts over time, to continue a new language of boot patterns for the next generation to follow.

 

Dyeing crust leather presents a unique opportunity to enrich my decorative patterns. Crust leather has been tanned to a point just before color and finishing waxes seal the surface. I use products from Orion Calf to enhance my inlay.

ANATOMY
OF A BOOT

Use this page to familiarize yourself with the terms used to describe the different components and styles used in bootmaking.

Stovepipe

SCALLOP SHAPES

The topline of a boot typically has a thin strip of leather beading for structure and stability. A deep scallop allows the leg more ease of movement, while a stove-pipe top shows off custom-made fit.

Shallow Scallop

Full Rounded Scallop

Free Form

Overlay

PULL STYLES

Pull straps are a functional part of the boot making it easier to pull on the boot with your fingers or boot hooks.  They offer a wide potential of visual styles in their construction and decoration.

Traditional

Interior

Mule-ear

Floral Tongue

TONGUE SHAPES

Each maker and brand tends to have a tongue profile or two that identifies their work. A narrower tongue on a custom-made boot hugs the foot just so, marrying style to function.

Leafy Tongue

Curved Tongue

Narrow Tongue

Roper “Walking Heel”

HEELS

Traditional western boots have a high heel with a flat breast to keep a horse rider’s foot from sliding through a stirrup. This heel pushed the instep forward, resulting in an iconic profile recognized around the world.

Heel Height

“Under Cut” Heel Profile

Cuban Heel

Welted Sole(all boots, including dress boots)

SOLE CONSTRUCTION

Welted boots are designed with intent to repair, and are so solidly built they can be a tough, working tool. A finer dress boot might have a narrow welt, or cemented construction for a lighter, delicate look.

Cemented Sole(dress boots only)

Round Toes

TOE SHAPES

On well-made boots the toe shape is an aesthetic choice, built forward of the toes. Narrower toe profiles developed to ease a boot in and out of a stirrup.

Box Toes

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